When we started for our drive the sun was shining brightly on Munich, and theair was full of the joyousness of early summer. Just as we were about to depart,Herr Delbrück (the maître d'hôtel of the Quatre Saisons, where I was staying... Read more

When we started for our drive the sun was shining brightly on Munich, and theair was full of the joyousness of early summer. Just as we were about to depart,Herr Delbrück (the maître d'hôtel of the Quatre Saisons, where I was staying) camedown, bareheaded, to the carriage and, after wishing me a pleasant drive, said tothe coachman, still holding his hand on the handle of the carriage door:Remember you are back by nightfall. The sky looks bright but there is a shiver inthe north wind that says there may be a sudden storm. But I am sure you will not belate. Here he smiled, and added, for you know what night it is.Johann answered with an emphatic, Ja, mein Herr, and, touching his hat, droveoff quickly. When we had cleared the town, I said, after signalling to him to stop:Tell me, Johann, what is tonight?He crossed himself, as he answered laconically: Walpurgis nacht. Then he tookout his watch, a great, old-fashioned German silver thing as big as a turnip, andlooked at it, with his eyebrows gathered together and a little impatient shrug of hisshoulders. I realised that this was his way of respectfully protesting against theunnecessary delay, and sank back in the carriage, merely motioning him to proceed.He started off rapidly, as if to make up for lost time. Every now and then the horsesseemed to throw up their heads and sniffed the air suspiciously. On such occasionsI often looked round in alarm. The road was pretty bleak, for we were traversing asort of high, wind-swept plateau. As we drove, I saw a road that looked but littleused, and which seemed to dip through a little, winding valley. It looked so invitingthat, even at the risk of offending him, I called Johann to stop-and when he hadpulled up, I told him I would like to drive down that road. He made all sorts ofexcuses, and frequently crossed himself as he spoke. This somewhat piqued mycuriosity, so I asked him various questions. He answered fencingly, and repeatedlylooked at his watch in protest. Finally I said:Well, Johann, I want to go down this road. I shall not ask you to come unless youlike; but tell me why you do not like to go, that is all I ask. For answer he seemed tothrow himself off the box, so quickly did he reach the ground. Then he stretchedout his hands appealingly to me, and implored me not to go. Less